Searching for Mr. Darcy in Bath

Sadly I did not find him, nor did I find my beloved Colonel Brandon.

But, as a certified Janeite (a Jane Austen enthusiast), I certainly tried! I did, however enjoy exploring the city which Jane Austen spent time in during the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and incorporated into many of her novels. While none of her Bath residences are open to the public (several no longer exist), The Jane Austen Centre is housed in a Georgian townhouse just doors down from one she lived in and is almost identical. It was interesting to learn more about the author, her family, and the role Bath played in the social lives of its visitors during the Regency period -- dancing, socializing, gossiping, card games, tea drinking, and of course taking the waters at The Pump Rooms.

Before I even began exploring the Bath of the Romans (the next post), there was so much else to see in Bath. Here are some of the highlights.

Built in 1767, the magnificent Royal Crescent is made up of 30 Georgian townhouses.

No. 1, out of the picture on the far right, is preserved as a museum,

but was sadly closed while we were visiting for renovations.

 

The Parade Gardens are a lovely Victorian public garden and park, overlooking the a river Avon and Pulteney Bridge.

What would an English park be without a bandstand and band concert?

And a proper floral tribute to the Queen's Diamond Jubilee. Long may she reign!

 

Pulteney Bridge is often compared to Florence's Ponte Vecchio. Crossing the Avon, it beautifully connects the city.

 

A view of the bridge, and...

 

...from the bridge of the weir.

 

 

Bath Abbey, completed in 1611, is on a site that has been occupied by various cathedrals and churches since 757 AD.

 

The Abbey was built in 1499, but lay in ruins for many years. The current exterior dates to 1616 and the interior to 1864.

The minute you walk through the door of the abbey, your eyes are drawn up to the beautiful fan vaulting of the nave ceiling.

 

The stunning Gothic nave.

Many battle-worn flags hang from the rafters. If only they could tell us their stories.

 

Fashionable members of Georgian society would come to the Assembly Rooms, completed in 1771, to socialize.

 

You might arrive in this, or...

 

...one of these.

The Card Room

The Great Octagon

The Tea Room

The Ball Room

 

We were fortunate that while we were there, Jubilee: Dressing the Monarchy on Stage and Screen had just opened in the Ball Room, featuring costumes from television, movie and stage productions featuring royalty.

 

Who can forget Helen Mirren...

as Queen Elizabeth I.

Here's a very young Kenneth Branagh as...

... Henry V.

and Mrs. Wyman as ...?

 

Located in the oldest house in Bath (c. 1482), afternoon tea at Sally Lunn's was a real treat. Instead of finger sandwiches, world famous Sally Lunn Bath Buns are served. I loved that Roman ruins were excavated on the site and are preserved and displayed in the basement museum.

Sally Lunn was a French Huguenot refugee, who settled in England in 1680. I've recently begun exploring my Hugenot ancestry in upstate New York, so I was interested by this connection.

Sally Lunn brioche-type buns are massive!

For afternoon tea, they are served with salmon.

What is afternoon tea without scones, jam, and clotted cream,

which Jennie and I elevated into its own food group!

At the end of a long day of walking all over this very hilly city, and having passed on lunch, we felt we had earned this gastronomic treat!

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From Blenheim to Bach

After a short 8-mile bus ride out of Oxford into the nearby countryside, we had a gorgeous day exploring Blenheim Palace. School had just let out the day before, and it was the first official day of the British summer holidays, so it was mobbed!

Still the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, Blenheim was designed by Vanbrugh (whom you might remember from a previous post also designed Castle Howard) and remodeled by Capability Brown. It is most famously known as the accidental birthplace of Winston Churchill in 1874, while his parents were visiting his grandfather, the 7th Duke. Blenheim was given as a gift from Queen Anne to the 1st Duke, John Churchill, in thanks for his victory over the French at The Battle of Blindheim (Blenheim) in 1704. In turn, he made sure it honored her, as well.

 

The 9th Duke, a very close friend of Churchill's, is responsible for the stunning grounds and gardens established in the 1920s. He had over half a million trees planted!

 

It is here, in the water terraces, that Winston proposed to his beloved Clementine.

The Rose Garden

The view to the Main Lake from within the Rose Garden.

 

The private Italian Garden

Vanbrugh's Grand Bridge across the lake.

A visit to Blenheim isn't complete without a stroll through the Woodstock Gate, and...

...into the village of Woodstock itself.

Referred to in the Domesday Book, Woodstock is one of the most picturesque villages I've seen thus far.

 

 

The Bear Hotel dates to the 13th century.

Behave, while in the village, or you'll end up in the stocks!

After a long day of walking, our tired feet clambered onto the bus back to Oxford. We hopped off and dashed back to our hotel to prepare for an exciting event that evening. My husband had surprised us by booking tickets to a performance of Bach's glorious Magnificat sung by the choir and choiristers of New College at the Sheldonian Theatre.

Before the concert, we decided to do one last bit of college peeping in the Sheldonian's neighborhood. The Porter at Wadham College saw us peering in through the gate and invited us in to take a quick picture. We've stayed out of trouble on the trip until this point, but...

 

...two very "jolly" men (they'd been at a wedding reception, so need I say more!) out of nowhere ran in, grabbed Jennie, and hoisted her up while standing on the grass (a very big no no in Oxford college courtyards!) and we were promptly asked to leave.

 

After laughing hysterically around the corner, we regained our composure and moved on to the Sheldonian.

 

Designed by Sir Christopher Wren in 1664, the Sheldonian serves as the main assembly room of the University.

 

The ceiling fresco is made up of 32 oil on canvas panels, depicting Truth descending on the Arts and Sciences.

When we first saw the choiristers, they were goofing around with one another, making silly faces, and waving to their families.

Then, after robing and being joined by their university-aged colleagues, they miraculously turned into the angelic choir of New College, Oxford.

The choir was accompanied by the Oxford Philomusica.

And then, with it barely dark at 10:00pm, we wandered back to our hotel and our very long day came to a triumphant end.

 

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